Tractor Supply National Hardware Box Rail

I showed you in an before mail How to: DIY Faux Befouled Doors  how I built my barn doors. This post will tell y'all how not to install  befouled door hardware. Simply kidding-but I felt like these doors were never going to be up.
These box runway and hangers are at present available to purchase online.

Materials Needed to Hang DIY Barn Doors

I purchased one of these Box Rails.

Considering I have 2 doors, I had to purchase 2 sets of these flexible hangers are at present bachelor on Amazon.

I purchased 2 of these Brackets to hold the box runway on the wall.

The box rail was as well long. I cut it off with my reciprocating saw.

Can You Paint Barn Door Hardware?

The pieces are galvanized, I wanted them to be stainless to lucifer other items in my kitchen—ceiling fan, kitchen accessories, and hinges. I used Krylon Stainless Steel spray paint. You can see the difference between the brackets and the box runway role I cutting off.

I didn't paint the hangers (rollers).

Install Befouled Door Hardware

To install the hangers, I needed to drill a hole in the tiptop of the door for each bracket/hanger.

To practice the holes, I used a bracket to mark the three commodities holes and the large hole in the peak for the hanger bolt.

I used a ¾ inch paddle flake to drill the hole in the top of the door.

I placed the bracket iii inches from the edge of the door.

The holes were marked with a Sharpie, then used a ⅜ inch paddle scrap to drill them.

You can come across with the bracket on the door, the large bolt in the hanger fits in the hole in the top of the door.

Prepare your infinite for the barn door hardware installation

This is where things got really crude. The Accent Piece used two 2x4's for their box rail. I decided to go with a 2x6 instead. I initially used deck screws to attach information technology to the wall.

When I brought the doors in. . .

. . . and measured it to the 2x6, it was clearly too low on the wall. I knew this was going to be a challenge for me when I started. Information technology was really difficult wrapping my brain around the (dead space) from the top of the subclass (door) to where the box rail would really become.
What follows is Not pretty folks.

DIY almost failure

I don't even accept pictures of all the things that went wrong. I removed the 2x6 and decided to utilise lag screws instead of the deck screws. Airplane pilot and countersink holes were driled. I put the 2x6 dorsum up.
The reason I don't have pictures of the side by side few steps is considering I was having a meltdown. MAJOR meltdown. I felt like this was never going to work at this point.

And so, I had to accept the 2x6 downward. I drilled the countersink holes large plenty for the head of the lag screw, but didn't take in business relationship the size of the socket that I was using on my drill to drive them in.

When I purchased the lag screws, I too picked upward a 2x8 because lo and behold that is what the directions called for. I cut and painted the 2x8 and asked begged for some assist. Two hands are not enough to handle and install a 7 ft 2x8.
While the paint dries on the 2x8 . . .

Old homes are full of surprises

whoa! who shot upwardly my wall with a motorcar gun? LOL  I used a nail to find the studs, that didn't piece of work. Then I tried a  stud finder, and it was giving a false reading. I used my drill. I feel similar I demand to requite a little history of this wall. Back in the twenty-four hours, before I moved here, this was a doorway to the outside, then to a breezeway. Finally someone enclosed the breezeway and made a room on the other side of this doorway.

I used a piece of wire to push into each of the holes to see if it went all the way in, or if it striking a 2x4. I know xvi inch centers, sometimes 24 inch centers. NONE of that was working. The skilful news is, this volition all be covered upwards with the new 2x8.

Persistence pays off

I marked the holes that hitting lumber. Information technology appears at that place is some sort of beam going across.

Typical installation would be to put the box rail up, then attach the brackets to the doors, then slide the doors into the box runway. Only, remember where this door is going, information technology is blocked off on both sides. I had to put the flexible hangers in the box track before I attached it to the 2x8.

How to Hang a Box Rails

No pictures of the new 2x8 in progress. I did learn from my mistakes. I drilled a pilot hole and a big countersink hole so the socket would easily drive the lag screws all the mode in. In this flick you tin see that I used painter's tape to keep the hangers from rolling around during this step. On the right, you lot can see that the bracket has been fastened to the 2x8 to hold the box rail. On the left yous can see that the box track is existence supported by the messed up  2x6 to give tired artillery a break.

While the 2x6 is holding up the box track, I used the level on the box runway. (I also used the level on the 2x8)  After making sure the box rail is level, I drilled a airplane pilot hole and inserted at ⅜ 2" lag screw to the 2x8. (I used a ratcheting  socket for this lag spiral)

Attach diy barn doors to box rail

Remember this earlier picture? The flexible hangers pivot, allowing the doors to be swung up off the floor, assuasive me to get to the bolts.
These flexible hangers can be adapted to raise/lower your door, and to set your door closer, or further away from your 2x8 or door frame.

This is how the door was installed. The lesser bolt was inserted on both brackets, and the nut fastened. This allowed the door to be swung up off the flooring slightly in club for me to get to the other iv bolts (that are commonly restricted by the door frame).

Y'all can see that I didn't fill the holes where the lag screws are. I may or may not leave them industrial looking.

DIY Befouled Doors installed

Yous tin meet the difference in the color of the door and the walls.

I am however thrilled with my new Exercise Information technology Yourself Barn Doors! The left slides to the left, the correct slides to the right, and that leaves about a 32 inch opening.

Tools I used:

• Reciprocating Saw (to shorten box rail)

• Drill

• bits

• Hammer

• ⅞ inch socket (for the large nuts on the flexible hangers used for adjusting the door elevation etc)

• open ended wrench for 12 bolts holding the door on the subclass.

• Level-cocky explanatory

• 11/64 bit for pilot holes (lag screws)

• ⅜  paddle bit for 12 holes in top of the door (brackets)

• 7/xvi socket to drive lag screws through 2x8 into the wall

• ¾ paddle fleck for holes in the top of each door (for big hanger bolt)

• ¾ paddle bit was as well used to drill countersink holes in 2x8 so I could use the 7/sixteen socket.

• ¼ 10 3" lag screws (concur 2x8 on the wall)

Not included in the Tractor supply hardware-

• ⅜ x ii" lag screws for box rail hanger (ii) (not pictured)

• ¼ x iii" lag screws (I used  12 for 7 ft)

More than Details

Here are the details about the specs of this space:

The width when I started was 89″ from left (wall) to right (cabinets)
The doorway is 47.75″
When Airtight the doors are 55.5″ wide
The area that is exposed when doors are fully open is 32″ (near the width of a standard door)

UPDATE: I accept had to remove the doors twice, one time to motility in new living room furniture, and once to bring in the new fridge and stove.

I love my new befouled door hardware and doors! It was an expensive projection, my most costly DIY by far! But, if y'all shop around online, the hardware alone tin cost more than that. (real barn door hardware can run up of $500, not counting doors)

I found some corking handles at The Domicile Depot. Love them! You tin can get similar befouled door handles online.

What's backside the doors? That not-purpose room that needs to be updated. Information technology's where the cats eat and sleep. They do have the run of the business firm, but mostly prefer that room because the blinds are e'er open and they have a cracking window seat that is heated in the winter time. I now have to go along the doors cracked open and so they can go in and out of the room. Initially I planned to put in a fiddling "mouse hole" at the bottom left of the left door. Whatever thoughts on that?

EDITED TO Add together:  I updated the door on the left to allow the cats to accept access to their room.

My goal is to go along this footling guy out of their room. 🙂

If you want the details see my mail: A Mouse Hole for the Cats

gail

UPDATE:

How it looks at present:

Check out other door projects here

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